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Friday, December 21, 2012

9 Tools For Closeup Photography

When shooting small subjects reducing vibrations during the exposure is key for the best opportunity at a sharp image. Even just depressing the shutter button on your camera with your finger tip is enough to introduce shaking. So I would recommend if able to lock down your camera on a tripod or sandbag, turn off Vibration Reduction on your lens, select Mirror Lock Up and use a cable release. Taking these steps will help reduce camera and lens shake allowing for a sharper image if you can get the focus right on. 

 

#1 – Light Diffuser


When shooting the little things such as wildflowers on the side of the trail or in your own backyard it can be difficult at times difficult to control the amount of ambient light hitting your subject. One way of reducing or diffusing the sunlight is by holding up light diffuser above your subject. One of the more popular diffusers is a 5 in 1. These collapsible and portable modifiers come in various sizes and materials to add or subtract ambient light.





Uses:

1. Use the diffusion panel to reduce harsh light and shadows by placing it between the sun (lightsource) and your subject
2. Use the the Gold Panel to bounce some warm tones onto the sunject and fill in unwanted shadows
3. Use the Black Panel to subtract or block unwanted light 
4. Use the Silver Panel to add a punch of contrast by bouncing cool tones onto the subject and filling in unwanted shadows.
5. Use the White Panel to reflect neutral tones for soft natural-looking light





#2 – Remote Shutter Release

 The remote shutter release keeps your finger from having to press down on the shutter  button  which can add a little shake just enough to blur your image.
Most cameras have a built in 5sec or 10 sec self timer. However you have to dig through the camera menu to find them or wait those 10 seconds each time you want to take an image. Using either a cable realese or an Infra Red version keeps your camera still and you can fire off more images faster.

 

#3 – Macro Lens 

  

Macro photography or micro photography is the form of extreme close-up photography, usually of
 very small subjects such as insects or interior of flower pedals. There are a number of specialized lens that allow for a reproduction ratio of 1:1 between subject and camera sensor. These lenses have a closer focusing distance between subject and camera than traditional kit lenses and have very sharp optics
Using a regular zoom lens you might have to be at least 5' to 7' feet away for the lens to focus  on a subject. Where as with a dedicated macro lens you can be much closer to your subjects sometimes as close as 8" to 10". Thus filling the frame with your crepy crawler insect or looking deep into a flower. Because of the sharp details a macro lens is able to capture some photographers grab a macro lens for portrait images as well. If capturing the "small world" is of keen interest to your photography you might benefit from having a dedicated macro lens in your bag.

Macro lenses come in various focal lengths, to find out which price point and features can grow with you, you should borrow a macro lens from a friend or borrowlenses.com over the weekend and see if the small world is something for you.


lens rental




#4 –Extension Tubes

An alternative to purchasing a Macro Lens are Extension Tubes. A Extension Tube is a hollow tube with no optical elements that you mount between your lens and camera body. Increasing the distance between the back of your lens and the camera sensor results in magnification of the image.
Extension tubes without electrical contacts will not allow an electronic automatic camera to control the lens, thus disabling auto-focus and in some cases forcing a user to shoot wide open unless the lens offers manual aperture control. More expensive extension tubes contain electrical contacts allowing the user to use auto-focus and electronically control the aperture of the attached lens. An advantage to the non-electrical tubes is their lower price.


#5 Close-Up Lens

 Close-up lenses are special lenses that screw onto the front of your lens like an ordinary camera lens filter such as Polarizer or UV filter. They're basically just a sophisticated magnifying glass that's placed between your lens and the subject. It's for this reason that they're also often called "close-up filters."
A close-up filter works by decreasing the effective focal length of whatever lens they're used on. This decrease in focal length means that the extension has to increase correspondingly — which ends up magnifying the image similar to if one were to have used an extension tube.



 

 

 

#6 – Tripod

 Keeping your camera steady during the shot will ensure you get the sharpest photo possible. And, nothing will do that better than a tripod. Yeah, they’re heavy and take a lot of time to setup, but you’ll be happy you used one when you’re back home admiring your super sharp photos.


 

#7 Mini Tripods

 Some of the most interesting subjects in nature are found so low to the ground that a standard tripod won’t work. A few of the high end +$300 tripods do fold flat and have a removable center column but this can take up time. Instead of transforming your tripod it makes sense to pick up a simple compact mini tripod you can keep in your camera bag or in your jacket.



 

#8 – Slider Plate

When shooting subjects with a wide aperture and a narrow depth of field it can be very difficult to find focus. Sometimes your camera's auto-focus is unable to lock focus, so you will have to resort to manual focus. Trying to compose your shot and getting the right focus plane using a smaller focus ring commonly found on zoom lenses is a difficult challenge. An option is to move the camera plane itself to and from your subject in mini increments. Lifting or nudging your tripod is not very accurate however. The option would be to attach a sliding focus rail to your tripod.
Sliding focus rails come in 2 or 4 way movement directions. The smooth rack and pinion movement provide extremely fine focusing adjustments and positive locking knobs to assure steady focus.



 

#9 Sand/Bean/Rice/Pellet Bag

Some of the most interesting subjects in nature are found so low to the ground that a tripod won’t work. So, you’re only option is to rest the camera directly on the ground, but if there’s a bunch of rocks on the ground that could be a problem for your camera. To avoid scratching your camera, it’s helpful to carry around a beanbag or even just an extra bandana so you can rest your camera on it for those super low shots.

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